With the arrival of the summer solstice, Galicia is transformed into a scenario of fire, music, ancestral rituals and community to celebrate the night of San Juan, one of the most emblematic and deeply rooted festivities in the Galician cultural calendar.
The night of June 23-24, marked by the longest light of the year, is also a time of spiritual renewal, where pagan customs, popular beliefs and festivities intertwine to give life to one of the most magical traditions of northern Spain.
Origin and ancestral meaning
The celebration of San Juan has pre-Christian roots. It dates back to ancient Celtic rituals that worshipped the sun during the summer solstice, when light reaches its peak and a new cycle of fertility and abundance begins. With Christianization, these festivities were absorbed into the liturgical calendar under the name of St. John the Baptist, whose birth is celebrated on June 24. However, in Galicia, many of the practices keep intact their esoteric and naturalistic background, turning the night into a mystical and festive experience at the same time.
Purifying fire and bonfires that scare meigas away
Fire is the great protagonist of the night. In thousands of squares, streets and, especially, beaches of Galicia, the traditional cacharelas are lit, large bonfires around which entire communities gather. The fire symbolizes purification, protection and rebirth. According to popular belief, jumping over the flames an odd number of times (usually three, five or seven) cleanses the soul, drives away evil spirits and chases away the feared meigas, witches or evil spirits of the Galician imagination.
The traditional herbas de San Xoán
Nature also plays a leading role. It is tradition to collect at dusk on the 23rd the so-called herbas de San Xoán, a combination of plants with supposed protective and curative powers: fern, hypericum, verbena, rosemary, lemon verbena, mallow and rue, among others. These herbs are left to soak in water in the open air, all night long, to absorb the magical dew. At dawn on the 24th, many people wash their faces with this water as a rite of beauty, health and good luck.
Water, sea and fertility
Water also acts as a purifying element. Bathing in the sea at midnight is a common practice, especially among the more superstitious, who believe that bathing cleanses negative energies. On the beach of A Lanzada, in the province of Pontevedra, a very peculiar custom is maintained: women who wish to become pregnant must jump backwards over nine waves.
The queimada and its incantation
You can’t miss the queimada, a drink made with Galician brandy, sugar, lemon or orange peel and coffee beans. The mixture is set on fire and, while it burns, the famous conxuro da queimada is recited, a spell in Galician that invokes the expulsion of evil spirits, the protection of the home and the fortune of those present.
Flavors of San Juan: sardines and broa bread
Like all Galician festivities, San Juan has a gastronomic facet of great relevance. It is typical to roast sardines in the embers of the bonfires, whose aroma permeates the air of the streets and beaches. They are accompanied with broa bread (corn bread) and cachelos (boiled potatoes with skin).
Music and partying until dawn
The night is marked by traditional Galician music, especially with instruments such as the bagpipe, which accompanies dances and popular songs. Many towns organize concerts, fireworks shows and parties that last until dawn, creating a unique atmosphere.
Santiago de Compostela, epicenter of urban celebration
In the Galician capital, the city council, in collaboration with various neighborhood associations, organizes bonfires in different neighborhoods of the city. There are also concerts and activities in squares in the old and new areas, such as Plaza de Mazarelos and Plaza Roxa.
What better way to experience this day in Galicia?
